Not So Black and White?

Sophie Maxwell, of Pearlfisher, looks at why beauty players can’t afford to ignore the desire for—and embracing of—cultural diversity.

By Sophie Maxwell

YSL has announced that July 14 marks the UK launch of its Touche Eclat illuminator in a new range of shades to suit black and Asian skin. A spokesperson for YSL confirmed that while it is has been a need the brand has wanted to meet, the technology was not up to scratch until now. And hopefully, the launch of this makeup bag staple from one of the world’s most loved and iconic brands heralds a new era for cosmetics for ethnic skin.

Other brand names have also been promoting their offers for different skin types and colors. Garnier’s Caffeine Anti-Dark Circles Tinted Eye Roll On and Laura Mercier’s Secret Camouflage have darker shades, as do Bobbi Brown and Lllamasqua. MAC and Make Up For Ever are both cited as great for Asian skins although this may just be a reflection of the sheer number of foundation colors and types available.

There are, of course, some notable – and successful – specialist brands for black skin including IMAN Cosmetics, Fashion Fair and K by Beverley Knight. And for Asian skin, Farah Naz – a British Asian woman and makeup artist – has created her own range of foundations: EX1. Farah’s growing list of awards and media coverage is impressive to say the least. But the choice at makeup counters for products specifically formulated for ethnic skin per se is still very limited.

A combination of market and financial issues has seen the mainstream naturally defer to the specialist brands as they cater to this slice of the market. But this is no longer good enough as a burgeoning global bazaar grows and directs the growth of the overall market and these increasingly significant sectors within it.

As global parity increases, the amount of new and indigenous brands at our fingertips is truly inspiring and exciting and only brings into even sharper focus the lack of ethnic, market specific innovation. The economic superpowers of the Far East and particularly the newly feted rise of the Eastern supermodel is steering a new global direction and evolution for fashion and beauty. Added to this, an overarching trend for “glocal” that is dominating each and every sector of our brand lives, means that the big beauty players can’t afford to ignore the desire for – and embracing of – cultural diversity.

What we are asking brands to do may seem like a contradiction in terms: celebrating specific individuality with prescriptive products. But it’s not so much about pigeonholing as truly acknowledging a shared difference in a way tried, but maybe not successfully achieved before, by focusing on diversity, originality and openness but in a community minded way – and matching a visionary brand proposition with a truly creative and challenging design to show that we are living in a new age with a truly new influence.

AUTHOR BIO: Sophie Maxwell is head of insight at Pearlfisher – [email protected] www.pearlfisher.com